Monday, October 19, 2015

Fancy a Cheeky Nandos with the Lads?

So a "cheeky nandos" has become a popular slang in the UK. Nandos is essentially a Portuguese restaurant specializing in spicy chicken that uses various kinds of sauces from the per-peri (a type of pepper). Lad culture, which as far as I understand it is the young men at university who do stupid things, came up with the phrase "cheeky nandos" within the last few years. It used to be a nice (albeit somewhat pricey) restaurant people could go to with their families. Nothing about it was crazy or cheeky.

This changed and suddenly it became a "cheeky" place to go to with the lads and perhaps have some banter (another British slang that could be used to describe people joking with one another but using very rude and deprecating humor, or can simply be used as an all inclusive word people use when they don't know what else to say; I have often heard it used in place of gossip). A lot of times the cheekiness of Nandos is because it is done at the last minute and is unplanned. However, "cheeky nandos" can also just mean spicy chicken, and therefore the "cheeky" word comes to mean spicy.

I have heard all of this explained to me in many different ways. Everyone I have talked to has explained it in a different way, and I have tried to created an all-inclusive definition. It still doesn't make a whole lot of sense to me, and so this is still a very general way of explaining it.

Since this is such a huge part of the culture, the people here are shocked and disappointed that I had never gone to Nandos. They even insisted that there were some in the United States (there are a few, but not anywhere near me). This was at the first Slytherin House social (a part of the Hogwarts Society I have joined). As a result, the next social was made to educate those in the society who had never experienced a cheeky nandos.

The experience wouldn't be truly Welsh without casually passing a castle on the walk over.
And I wouldn't truly be an American without taking a selfie with it.
 It was interesting to use Swansea castle as a navigation point on Google maps, but I am slowly starting to get used to the aspect of huge, thousand-year old structures being a natural part of the scenery. Just not quite used to having that juxtaposed by a shopping center and a street dedicated to clubs and bars.

When I first arrived, I thought I had made a terrible mistake as I looked up and saw a shoddy place called "Mandos." Did I really just find myself on a Saturday night on Wine Street (place for students to get drunk and do dumb things)? Where was the Nando's then? After looking up from the maps on my phone, I saw another member of the Slytherin house standing beneath a lit sign for Nando's. Phew.



I wasn't sure what to expect from Nandos. I am not a fan of spicy food, and so I was honestly prepared for disappointment. It has been common for the people around me to love burning their tongues off, while I just order something "mild" and still silently suffer. But I was not about to say no to this. It's just another cultural experience to have while in the UK.

We waited for a bit until the head of house came (and any other members who had not yet made it) before settling into a booth. Surrounding me were experienced Nandos customers, one of which immediately suggested we try a Wings Roulette (a variety of chicken wings each with different spiciness levels unknown to you until you eat it). Each of us chipped in for that in addition to our main course.

The menu seemed intimidating to me as I had no idea what was good or bad, and there were a lot of options available.


I asked someone what was good and they told me to just get a burger. At first I thought they were being rude as in all an American will eat is a hamburger. I asked why I would get one of those at a chicken restaurant, and then they replied that the burgers are made with the chicken and it is what people typically get. Oh. I felt stupid.

Since I am also bad with spicy food they suggested I go with the medium heat. Anything higher than that is just too much. But afterwards they all joked saying that they get the medium spice, but pour on the hottest sauce on top of it.


When I went up to order and pay (this is common, as rarely there are waiters there to service you), the lady at the cashier let me try the medium sauce to make sure it was okay before ordering it. I didn't see a problem with it and agreed to that amount of heat. There was only a small kick to it, and once all of the toppings are on it, the dish will really cool down (and it did).

A look at the restaurant. People order in the top left of the picture. Our booth was further to the right (not pictured).
Closer look at some of the decor.
First I tried the wing roulette. The first one I grabbed was just a lemon and herb one with very little heat. Less than the medium option. Temperature-wise, it was scalding though. The second one was "hot" and was surprisingly tolerable.

After that, my main meal came in. Two chicken thighs on some amazing bread, complete with a cole slaw (not American and unrecognizable to our traditional cole slaw flavor wise). Of course, there were chips on the side. One of the pointed to me as I ate and said, "Everyone! First bite!" It was a lot of pressure and since I happened to only taste the bread I had to put on a bit of a show. It was amazing, but the real treat wasn't until I reached the chicken.

There is Nandos sauce at Tesco supposedly (our supermarket). I want to track it down and make my own version of their delicious meals. And bring plenty back to the states for my family to try.

All in all, it was a great time with some great people. I really am enjoying my time in Slytherin. Who can dislike people that take you to Nandos? Plus afterwards we went to watch Robin Hood: Men in Tights at one of their houses.

It may not be a trip to Paris, but I think the little things like this are still important to have. Just having a better and more personal experience of a cheeky Nandos is a big thing to me. And I am honored that they all want to share their culture with me.

Thursday, October 15, 2015

Big Apple Weekend - Cider Festival at the Gower Heritage Centre

On Saturday and Sunday, the Gower Heritage Centre hosted an event called the Big Apple Weekend. It celebrates a part of Welsh history that has been present around for hundreds of years: hard cider. originally, a large group was supposed to go, but in the end only me and my flatmate Yaren were left to attend. We were able to bus as far as Mumbles, but then could not find any other bus routes to take us to the location. On the map, the Heritage Centre was close to Mumbles, and so we figured we could always walk if need be. However, we soon discovered that it was a two hour walk.

Nonetheless, we went with it. I knew that the Gower was a very beautiful place and figured the walk would be the same; and it was. The start was rough as it was all uphill. Once it flattened out in suburbia, it became much easier. But the sidewalks did not stay with us for long.


We had to make sure we were always facing traffic and walked as close to the side as possible. This was not expected, but we assumed that it wouldn't last long. Plenty of people must walk here. Well, it pretty much switched off between sidewalk and no sidewalk for the entire two hours. At one point it even had us walk through a park.


The time went by slowly for the first hour. We even timed it, and so that two hour walk turned out to be longer since google map minutes went by slower than real time minutes (though by how much we are uncertain). The last hour was the prettiest as we were really starting to get out in the middle of nowhere. However, we had to deal with the least amount of sidewalks.


Weirdest bus stop ever.

It reads, "Take the weight off your feet."

The scariest thing to happen was when a little girl came out of her house with a dog. It was a black lab with no idea what cars were, but loved people. Naturally, it wanted to cross the street to greet Yaren and I. Panic rising, I tried to shoo the dog away. When that didn't, I called it closer. The dog just wanted to jump around in the middle of the street. Quickly, I looked both ways to make sure no cars were coming. Then I grabbed the dog by the collar and pulled it towards me. Yaren said, "Sierra, look out!" A red car was slowly turning the corner. I stopped so that it would not hit me, but the car also stopped so as to let me pull the dog away.

I waited for the road to clear more before dragging the dog back to the little girl. I didn't dare let go of it's collar until I made sure the girl had a firm grip on it. As we left I heard an older woman's voice telling the dog it was bad and would have to get locked up behind the fence now. I was very happy to hear this. Keep it inside the fence. There are no cars there.

The rest of the walk was pretty uneventful, but we did enjoy each other's company and talking about random things. I enjoyed imagining myself living here, taking my dogs for walks along the peninsula and angering the farmers by letting them chase the sheep.

The white dots by the tree are sheep.
 There was a strong smell of manure at one point, which Yaren was not too fond of. I didn't expect to like the smell either. In California, I went to high school next to a horse farm, which had a strong smell when the wind blew in the right direction. At Sonoma State, there is a small that we like to call the "Sonoma Aroma" and comes from the many farm areas around Sonoma county. In general, I live in an area with a lot of agriculture, and so the smell is very familiar to me. While in the Gower, I breathed it in deeply since it reminded me so much of home. I never cared for it before, but when you're so disconnected from your origins, any reminder of home is pleasant.

I think it says a lot that the smell of poop is comforting to me.

At one point, we saw a sign for the Gower Heritage Centre that led in a different direction than what Google Maps was suggesting. Yaren said we should go there since there is a reason that sign was put up, but I looked on the map and the way it was having us go looked to be a shortcut. After continuing on it, I could see why the sign wanted us to turn earlier. The sign is for cars to follow and where we were going, no cars would be allowed.


It was a little dirt road where people could bike and walk. At one point I slipped on the rocks and my phone case took a beating in the corner (but the phone inside was fine). Although I was bummed about the rubber corner getting wrecked, Yaren just wanted to make sure I was fine. I've fallen plenty of times, and so I wasn't really concerned for my well-being. She was, though. I definitely think I have found a good friend in her.

As we continued along, we found some magnificent homes. Many of which I would not mind living in.

The owner came out as I took a picture and talked about living here. Awkward...

There is also this great mansion.
The best areas came about 15 minutes before we reached the Heritage Centre.

Future Home!

Or maybe wherever the house with this backyard is.

Seriously, this is gorgeous.
There was a mini mart we stopped off at before to get water (a 2+ hour walk makes you thirsty), but after that it was to be all hard cider.

There is nothing as gratifying as seeing your destination after a long and sometimes difficult and dangerous adventure. We took a selfie to commemorate our success.

The front did not have a lot to it, and for a worried moment, I wondered if the festival was just an apple cider press and a couple people selling overpriced apples. But then I heard music coming from the distance and knew that this was just a small sampling.

150 year old working cider press.

Here is where they squish the apples for their juice.
But they do not keep any of the pulp. It gets put in a trailer to be disposed of.

Rotten apples are also discarded.
And in case you thought classic red telephone booths existed only in London...they do make a rare appearance elsewhere. I saw a couple of them in Bristol. Never in Swansea, though. Who would have thought that out in the middle of nowhere I would have found one? Of course I needed a photo of me standing next to it. No self-respecting American would do any differently.


On the inside, the festival was spectacular. It was inside the heritage center, which allowed us to also experience some of the exhibits it had to offer.

Old water wheel




I found like three or four of these...I don't understand.

After looking around for a bit, we knew our first priority should be food. We hadn't eaten since breakfast (which was a little later in the day), but by now it was about 3:45 and that food was long gone. Yaren was able to find a little barbecue place where we managed to get some decent burgers. They had mature white cheddar (the cheese of the welsh) and 100% Welsh beef. Plus onions that they grilled alongside the burgers. Unfortunately, mustard seems to be a Western trend and so I had to settle for garlic mayo as my condiment.

Shredded cheese is how it is done here. Sliced cheese? How American.

Not a bad lunch spot either.
With full bellies, we were ready to take on the main festivities. There were some booths with non-alcoholic things such as soaps, bread, and butter (all homemade). But we were interested in finally trying the cider. We were a little unsure of where to go, but did come across this little store.


All of the cider was made fresh using apples from their own orchard. She explained that cider needs special cider apples (like how there are different kinds of grapes used for wine). This may be why it had such a high alcohol level (7%). There are different types of cider (sweet and medium is what I sampled), and every time I didn't have something mellow and sweet, I made a funny face (eyes shut tight and head shaking from the weird taste). Meanwhile, Yaren preferred the stronger medium blends. Of course, she is also more accustomed to drinking being from Cyprus.

Surprisingly, I liked the cider made from pears the most. It didn't have too strong of an alcohol flavor but instead was rather sweet. Plus, I have always been fond of pears, and this was like pear juice with a kick.

We wandered around some more shops, looking for other places to sample cider from. Eventually we found the shop of a glass-maker.


Always love to see a craftsman at their trade.
The wife who ran the front desk was very sweet. I asked her if this was a popular trade in Wales, but she was sad to say that it was not. She also mentioned that it is a lot bigger in America. That's when I informed her that I was actually from California and studied art at my home university, but I was abroad for the year. Yaren and I then talked to her a little about Swansea.

Although I did appreciate the conversation and enjoyed both seeing the craftsmanship and the end result, I did not buy anything that he made. Instead, I went for the yarn. Is anyone that knows me shocked? It was made from Welsh sheep and hand-spun in Wales. I couldn't resist.

The heritage centre had a lot to offer besides the festivities, and we went around exploring some of the exhibits. There was an old post office, an area for a black smith (we missed the demo), a little antique store, etc. It really is an amazing place that is far bigger on the inside.




It was especially interesting as we were the only ones who did bother to explore the centre. Everyone else just stuck to the main centre with the cider and music. But eventually, we too were ready to settle down with a glass of cider and enjoy the festivities. There was another booth that we found with samples.


Again, Yaren preferred the mediums, and I could only tolerate the sweet stuff (including their version of pear cider, which both places called Peary). Since the festival was starting to wrap up (only a couple hours left on the last day), the half pints were discounted to £1. I don't remember which one Yaren settled on, but my final choice was a cider called Yarlington Mill. 

Drinks in hand, we found a seat and settled down with the live music that was playing on stage. 

Freshly pressed cider banner to remind everyone why this cider is the best. Also,
a Welsh flag to remind them why this cider is the best. The Welsh are a proud
group of people.




I felt so much like an adult in that moment. Here I was, sipping alcohol and listening to live music. I have seen people do this often at the art and wine festival but, being under 21, could never partake. Even at places like Truckee Thursday and the rib cook-off, people do this. It is a quintessential adult experience. And at long last I got to have it. I was even able to pretend I REALLY ENJOYED the cider (when in all reality I think fresh pressed apple juice would have been better). 

Another look at the whole set-up. Picture taken from a high-up path behind the stage.
 Yaren was able to finish her drink relatively quickly. By the time I was about a third of the way through, she was already done. Once I was at about halfway, another musical group came on. I wasn't too fond of them, and suggested we figure out how we were to get back since there was only an hour left of the festival. 

Once we arrived, we found out there were no buses back, but that we wouldn't have any troubles finding a ride. When we went to the information center this time, we were told to come back in half an hour and that we would have a ride. As a way to fill in that time slot, we found a puzzle that required us to go around finding letters at the various attraction. Now given we only had a half hour, this was an impossible task from the beginning. But we got pretty close. 

The letters were on signs around the Heritage Centre and the pictures of the signs lined up with the riddle. (If we were looking for a leaf sign, the riddle would be about a leaf in the location it was placed.) We were able to find over half of them as well as many other letters that didn't fit into any of the riddles. But there was no time to find the other letters nor enough time to unscramble them all to form the prize-winning word. 

Still, it gave me a chance to finish drinking my cider and go around and explore the area. 

There was an air raid shelter at Cardiff as well. Goes to show how much more
WWII affected Europe compared to the USA.

This is the air raid shelter.

"Big Foot's Coffin"

Always in Welsh.

Smallest toilet!
By the time we got back, we found out the lady who was in charge of the fresh butter and bread would be giving us a ride back. She was a worker for the Gower Heritage Centre and did not mind driving us back to the school. Originally, we were told we would only be able to get a ride back to a city with a bus that could take us back. She, however, took us all the way to the front of Fulton (the main building of the university).

We helped her load up the car with the supplies from her booth. (She didn't ask even for this help, but we insisted. It was the least we could do.) Plus, she had a dog that I could pet and loved to lick me. According to her, this was an amazing job since it was one of few that allows you to take your dog to work. I couldn't agree more.

On the topic of animals, Yaren and I also met an adorable cat named Mr. P while the lady giving us a lift went to retrieve the car. 

It was a very sweet cat that came when I smacked my lips in summoning.

This kitty loves all people and will rub against you in a shameless attempt for pets.
Aside from random cats, nice people, gorgeous scenery, and cider, the Gower has a lot more to offer. It is unlike anything I have ever experienced before. Somehow the rules change once you are here. It could be that there are no grocery stores (just some little convenience stops) or that the whole place gets eerie when the fog hits. But suddenly when entering the Gower you loose sidewalk, the accessibility to buses on a Sunday, and nature runs free. I am used to creeks, but in the Gower even creeks run on their own agenda. Instead of restricting themselves to one area where no one else really goes, the creeks run right along the sidewalk. 

You have to cross the creek to get to the other side.

Looking left, this is what you see. It is emerging from where creeks are generally restricted to.

And looking left, it is returning to the normal creek area once more.


I brought this up to the lady giving us a lift, and she just told us that the Gower has it's own rules. 

Once we loaded up into her car, I was a little weirded out that the dog was on the driver side with a lot of gear. Initially I thought, "Why would she do that? Now she just needs to move it all to the other side." Then I remembered that the drivers sit on the other side in the UK.

The lady was a lovely woman to talk to. She told us that she did not mind driving university students because she has kids in uni and would want someone to give them rides. She also said that she understands what it is like to be stranded on the Gower on a Sunday when the buses don't run. It had happened to her before.

She also told us a little bit about the Gower and some bad things that she had seen tourists do. Apparently you cannot swim in Rhossili Bay since there are bad riptides and it kills many people annually. Also, it is dangerous to get too close to the end of Worm's Head (same area) as many people slip down the cliff. It reminded me of the story we were told on the Gower tour. 

For starters, this is Worm's Head:

It's the long strip of land in the background. I saw it when I went and took this picture.
People walk along that path to get to Worm's Head, but do not consider high and low tide. Once high tide comes, it is impossible to cross as the path gets submerged under water. There is about a two hour gap in which you can cross to and from safely. One year during the Gower tour, they had left some people behind who then got stuck on Worm's Head and had to have a helicopter take them back. That was why this year they constantly counted the people on the bus.

When I told this story to her, she wasn't surprised. 

She also talked to us about her own life. She too went to Swansea for one of her degrees. But in addition to that, she had two degrees from two other schools. She used to teach history at a university as well. Now, she is essentially the historian of the Gower Heritage Centre. When the kids come in, she is the one who talks about the history of the place. 

Eventually, she also wants to move to France. It would allow her to get the house she wants for the price she wants. Even though she can't speak the language, she is sure she will learn. In France, she wants to teach again. 

We were thankful for both her stories and the ride that she gave us. We could not stop saying "thank you" when we left. 

It was an absolutely amazing day filled with friendship, culture, cider, and kind people. Everyone told me how nice the Welsh are, and I could not agree more.